That chill in the air means it’s a great time to make a new pair of jeans for your wardrobe. One way to ensure that your new jeans are built to last is by finishing your inseam with flat-felled seams. This type of seam is very sturdy, and because it is self-enclosed, is also very clean looking. On top of all that, it is really easy to do!
This seam finish is constructed on the outside of the garment. To start, place the WRONG sides of the fabric together and stitch on the seamline.
Press the seam open, then press the seam allowance toward the back of the pant leg. When you press the seam allowance towards the back of the pant leg, one seam allowance will be on top, and one will be on the bottom. Trim the bottom seam allowance down to 1/8 inch.
Press under the edge of the top seam allowance to 1/4 inch, so that it meets the trimmed edge of the bottom seam allowance. Fold the top seam allowance over the bottom seam allowance, enclosing it, folding at the seam line. Edge stitch the folded edge of the top seam allowance to the garment.
Proper trimming and pressing are important to make sure that the end result is flat and lovely, not lumpy and bumpy. Precise stitching is essential too, so if your stitch lines are usually wobbly, now is a good time to whip out your seam guide! When finished, you should have two rows of lovely topstitching and a very strong inseam!
By the way, if you are a Bernina owner you might consider checking out the amazing and wonderful Jeans foot (foot #8). This foot is specially designed to give the needle extra stability as it crosses over thick bulky seams. There is also a narrow groove on the underside of the foot that lets heavy jeans thread pass under easily as you sew, which can help prevent skipped stitches when topstitching. Even if you don’t own a Bernina, you can always use any of our Bernina feet while in the store for Open Sewing.