Sergery–Finish with a Coverstitch

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Categories: Apparel Sewing, bernette, Knits, Serger.

For those into to working with knits (or even just wearing them), you may have noticed a very specific detail that sets apart commercially made knit garments and your home sewing attempts and that is the hem or finished edge. Look at your t-shirt. Do you see the two rows of stitching at the hem?

When you turn it over you may notice what looks like a serged edge, but yet it’s further away from the folded hem. This was achieved on a machine known as a coverstitch machine. The main thing to remember about sewing on a coverstitch is that you will be sewing with the right side up so the two rows of stitching will appear where you want them. But that leads you to hemming without seeing the underside. My solution is to press lightly, lay the wrong side up to find the most accurate line on the stitch plate and then to sew with the right side facing up.

BERNINA gives you two options for accessing this professional looking finish; the 009DCC and the 1300MDC. The 009DCC is a stand-alone coverstitch machine and we recently got one in for use in the classroom. I’m very excited about this for many reasons but the biggest one is being able to produce such great results so easily!

For anyone who knows me, they know I’m machine crazy. I love pretty machines, vintage machines, you name it. I would personally prefer to have two separate machines-one that sergers and one that coverstitches. But say you’re limited on space and want one machine that can do both? Well then, say hello to the 1300MDC. With a few simple adjusts and a painless rethreading you can serge your t-shirt together and whip out a hem in one great machine.

Think of how often you wear knits. Daily? Wouldn’t you love to make your own? I’m offering another session of Beginning Serger: Knit Skirt Wednesday August 24th at 6:00 and would love to introduce to my newest must-have machine…the coverstitch.

If you’ve missed any of my previous serger posts, check them out here!

Common Stitches

Tools for Sergery

Understanding Differential Feed

Textured Nylon vs Polyester (especially for roll hems!)

3 Ways to Finish your Serged Seam

Anna is Adding Decorative Stitches!

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Categories: BERNINA, Home Decor.

Anna Joyce, local applique artist, founder of Anna Joyce Designs, and teacher at MD, brought home her very first BERNINA sewing machine last winter. She was able to choose a machine just right for her, the Aurora 450. This machine has loads of decorative stitches, and a 9mm stitch width. Many people wonder why you would want the ability to make decorative stitches bigger or even add them to a project in the first place, but for Anna, those full thready stitches were love at first sight. With her new work, Anna is diving into their rich but not overly done look beautifully. You can learn about machine applique in one of Anna’s upcoming classes. Here, Anna shares some thoughts about her new work.

This new new series of designs is inspired by vintage circus illustrations and has been so fun to create using  machine applique and decorative stitching. After cutting and designing each piece I have been hand drawing all of the details on the animals with a Clover Air Erasable fabric marker and then rendering them in thread, giving each design a unique personality that has been unexpected and really fun to create.

I feel like this new work is giving voice to all of the decorative stitches that my sewing machine (“Bernice”…my Aurora 450)  has to offer, adding a lot of texture and richness to the finished product with such ease. These circus pieces are just the beginning, and I am really excited to see where my work goes from here!

My Modern Domestic Life: One Top, Six Ways

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Categories: Uncategorized.

Have you ever found a pattern or project that is so easy and satisfying that you obsessively make not one, not two but SIX of the same thing? This summer I’ve been churning out top after top from Simplicity pattern 2599. I stumbled across this pattern on patternreview.com’s list of Top 10 Patterns for 2010 when I was looking for summer class inspiration.  

I made the class sample with three ruffles near the neckline. The fabric is a voile from Bolt by Anna Maria Horner.

It turned out so cute that I decided I had to have one that I could wear around town while my class sample sits in the shop, so I made another.

Then I decided to use up some of the gorgeous fabric I got at last year’s Designer Fabric Swap, and try the version with the jabot ruffles. What’s a jabot ruffle you ask? I had the very same question after I read that word on the pattern jacket, so I asked my friend Google, who told me that it is a ruffle that attaches at the neckline and extends down the front of a woman’s blouse or dress. Cute and frilly!

Then summer happened, and it was hot for like three whole days in a row, so I had to make a light and airy sleeveless version out of some peach polka dot fabric I got from a record store/vintage shop on MLK.  I love making fabric flowers, so I added a few to make the top more interesting. I finished the neck and armholes with bias binding.


I love all things plaid, so I made the cinched waist version out of some soft, loosely woven plaid I found at the Fabric Depot outdoor sale. I attached the casing for the elastic to the outside of the top for some extra flair, and used the rest of the bias tape for the neckline and sleeves.

My absolute favorite is by far the most ridiculous version, which is why I love it so much. I took the Introduction to Silkscreen Yardage class with totally awesome teacher Suzanna Scott, and printed a couple of yards of fabric with repeating images of my cat Joe’s head.

Hi Joe!

Yes, I am a crazy cat lady. What better way to use that fabric than to make it into a top? And put a giant bow on it? Perfection.

I’ll be teaching this extremely versatile top as a Beginner-level class starting next Thursday, July 28th, so if you’re a beginning sewist and don’t mind spending time with someone who makes fabric out of pictures of her cat’s face, join me!

Sergery: 3 Ways to Finish Your Serged Seams

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Categories: BERNINA, Learn to Sew, Serger.

Much like backstitching your seams on a sewing machine, there are ways to secure serged seams to prevent them from coming undone. There’s not enough time in the world for me to separate the 3 or 4 strands and tie a knot. I like quick! And easy!

1. By machine

Stitches are secured when they are sewn over or crossed with another serged seam. If the construction doesn’t naturally lend itself to this, here’s another way. Allow a 2″-3″ serged chain at the beginning of a seam. After the needles have JUST PIERCED the fabric, and with needles down, raise your pressure foot and bring the chain to the front. It should be between the foot and the fabric. Lower your foot and continue to serge. It should catch your chain and enclose it.

To finish, have the needles JUST PAST the fabric and stop with the needles up. Raise the presser foot, loosen the seam slightly, and flip the work so what was the underside is now facing up. Serge 1″-2″ over the previous stitching. Be sure not to cut off the existing stitches with the blade and veer off the side at an angle.

2. By threading

Sometimes I forget to “sew” them down, so my backup (and usually preferred) method is this. Take a darning, or large eye blunt tip, needle and thread the tail under the looped stitches. I keep this needle right next to my serger so it’s accessible. I think this method can be a little cleaner and neater than the machine method.

3. by Fray Check

I specifically use this on roll hems but you could use it anytime. The roll hem stitches are so close together that just a dab of this seam sealant will provide enough security.

My Texas Blouse and Thoughts on White Pants

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Categories: Apparel Sewing, Behind the Scenes, BERNINA, Bolt.

White pants and blouse

Well, the white pants thing is easy. I love, love, love them. I sprung for a low commitment pair from H&M (totally had to sew the blouse to wash away my guilt for shopping at such a low quality place) and absolutely love them. They are perfect for summer, fresh, trendy, and get way less dirty than I expected with two small children. Michelle has some she rocks beautifully and Shelly has been know to wear them while teaching a room full of squirrely kids even.

Ok, so onto the blouse part. Meredith, Michelle and I are spending the week in Texas. We are on the plane right now even, and will be getting our BERNINA on at Bernina University learning new sewing techniques, getting introduced to the new 5 Series machines, and pretty much pretending we are at BERNINA summer camp. In order to look professional (read: no bra straps showing) I wanted to make some sleeveless tanks that had a bit more coverage through the shoulder. Enter the lovely pattern from Simplicity and Cynthia Rowley. Lovely, easy, and cute! I also entertained sewing some from Erica’s totally cute Ruffle Blouse Class or Colette’s darling (and free) Sorbetto pattern, but let’s face it, ran out of time for making more before the Texas trip.

So after this cute unadorned version (above picture), I did go ahead and add the cool little twist bit around the collar . I got my fabric at Bolt of course. It is an absolutely lovely Japanese sateen that makes you want to crumple it up and shove it in your mouth it is so delicious. The sleeveless blouse is a great addition to the quick-and-easy sewing wardrobe. They whip up fast as the dickens, don’t need lining (usually) and can be endlessly embellished. Make some!

If you want some assistance making a similarly lovely ruffle (or not) blouse, take this awesome class with Erica.

Giveaway Winners!

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Categories: Bags and Accessories, Learn to Sew, Tools and Notions, Uncategorized.

Thank you so much for your wonderful response. I’m glad to hear they will be welcomed into happy homes. I couldn’t agree more-these pouches are so useful for so many things; you can almost never have enough cute fabric and fun combinations to hold all our bits and baubles. Congratulations to Lauren Nagy, Angelika Steinberg and Jennifer Schramm–winners of the zippered pouch samples! Feel welcome to stop by the shop and pick yours up anytime.

My Modern Domestic Life: Easy Coated Cotton Tablecloth with Ball Fringe Tutorial

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Categories: BERNINA, Home Decor, Tutorials, Uncategorized.

I have been going a little bonkers in the yard this summer. The plants, the lighting, the new stairs, the fire pit… everything looks amazing, but my IKEA outdoor table I bought two years ago is looking a bit tired.

Face lift needed!

I have been searching for an excuse to sew with coated cotton. I have been a long-time fan of oil cloth but it seems to stiffen after a few years of outdoor use, so I want to test how coated cotton stands up in the varied weather of Oregon. I decided to use Amy Butler’s Soul Blossoms Peacock Feathers in Rose. I absolutely LOVE ball fringe so I decided to add some peacock blue fringe around the edge to not only add some extra color and style, but it also helps to weigh down the edges when the wind blows. Any excuse to use it!

I started out by measuring my tabletop and adding 16″ to the length and width in order for to hang off the edge of the table equally. When working with such a large piece of fabric, I like to double it over to use my rotary cutter and mat. The extra long 4″ x 36″ rulers really come in handy when cutting large pieces like these. Remember, you always want to see the grid on both ends of your fabric when cutting to ensure you are getting it nice and square.

Once you get it cut to your desired length and width, you need to put on your zipper foot and get ready to sew on your ball fringe.

You will be sewing the trim onto the RIGHT SIDE of your fabric, aligning raw edge to raw edge. I like starting in the middle of one side and leaving a tail of roughly 5 inches that are not sewn on at the beginning of the trim. Move your needle position all the way to the left side and stitch as close to the edge of the solid trim as possible.

When you come to the corner, stop sewing approximately 1/2″ away from the edge of the fabric, kind of like when you bind a quilt, be sure to backstitch. Turn your fabric 90 degrees and begin stitching the next side, starting approximately 1/2″ away from the edge again. Repeat on all four corners. Yes, this does actually mean that you do not stitch the actual corner, as it allows for easier turning and finishing.

When you come to the point where you began sewing, cut your ball fringe so that you can fold over the solid trim and overlap the beginning of your work, matching the balls up in line.

Join the trim with the top trim hemmed over. You can’t even see the seam!

Next you need to use the awesome Non-stick #52 Foot! It is next to impossible to sew on fabric like coated cotton with a normal metal presser foot, however, with one of these little gems, your fabric slides through with ease. After using this foot for the first time, I ordered a Non-stick Straight Stitch Foot and one for Zippers! Come try them out at MD and see for yourself.

I kept my needle in the far left position and hemmed my fabric so I could top stitch the trim down flat. I went all around the entire table cloth folding my corners carefully under so the trim was tucked neatly on the wrong side of the fabric. Voila!

This simple little project spruced up my backyard even more. Keep an eye out for my upcoming post on my newly found (for free!) wooden chairs that I will be re-upholstering to go with the table.

Zippered Pouches for All! and a Giveaway

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Categories: Uncategorized.

At Bolt on Sunday, I was overwhelmed by the awesomeness of their fabrics. Some of these are so wonderful (and while I could buy fabric just about every day) but these days I try to buy fabrics only when I need them.  Need…want…need…want. It can be a fine line. I realized my zippered pouch class samples could definitely use a sprucing up and thus I NEEDED to buy fabric! I could not be happier with how they turned out. The only reason I’m okay leaving them at the store is because I still get to see them while I’m working. And I get to share them with everyone who walks in.

Bikes! And a tiny bird. So it's okay...right?

I love denim!

Want to have an excuse to buy fabric and make your own zippered pouch? Join me for another session of Learn to Sew: Zippered Pouch, Sunday August 7th at 5:00 pm! I’ve heard they’re addictive so be prepared to fall in love with zippers and fabric combos. As you can see I make them in 3′s. I like nesting them together.

Rock the foxes!

Can’t join me for class? Well then, how about a giveaway. Leave a comment about what you’d use the bag for and be entered to win one of my former class samples! Bag comes filled with notion goodies. More awesomeness.

Hooray pouches!

Backpacks: for Picnics, Parks, and the Pool

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Categories: Apparel Sewing, Bags and Accessories, Books, Sewing for Kids.

The non-penguin version of the kids backpack.

Just in time for summer adventure, I made new backpacks for the girls. After a look at the darling Penguin version from the Oliver+S book Little Things to Sew, I knew I had finally found the perfect pack pattern. I have made other backpacks for them; one was a super simple nap-sack version with no zippers and very little shape. I also copied a friend’s existing pack, and it worked fairly well, but was too small.

backpacks, unzipped

The next was a version from Stitch that Melissa designed. I like the size of that one, but made a poor choice by not lining it and using too lightweight of fabric. It just didn’t hold up super well, which was not the pattern’s fault, but completely mine.

So so cute!

When I saw Erica’s sample of the Penguin backpack for her upcoming class, I knew this was the pack I was looking for. I really liked working with the pattern. It came together beautifully, was written clearly, and used interfacing in just the right places.

My older daughter wanted a slightly bigger version, so I used Melissa’s pattern for size and constructed it according to the Oliver+S instructions, lined, a bit of interfacing along the zipper panel, and an inside pocket. Perfect.

There are other projects in this book I will try for sure. The sun hats, the tutus, the cape and more. Oliver+S’s patterns are great fun and produce simple, good-looking results. Sometimes we choose to teach our classes out of books instead of patterns, because even though the price is higher initially, the value is much greater. This book has dozens of patterns for kids of a wide age range, and is truly full of inspiration.

My Modern Domestic Life: Sisterhood of the Traveling 820

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Categories: Apparel Sewing, Behind the Scenes, BERNINA, Sewing Machines.

One of the biggest perks of working at the best little sewing studio in the world is being able to get my hands on all kinds of awesome tools and machines that I’ve never used before. When we became a full-fledged BERNINA dealership we got a bunch of new and exciting machines in the store, the most awe-inspiring for me is the BERNINA 820.

I squealed like a little girl when I found out that I would be the first in the shop to get to take the 820 home with me for 6 glorious weeks in order to get to know it better. Look how perfectly it fits on my sewing table. Like it was meant to be.

I’ve been doing such a good job of pretending the 820 is mine-all-mine that when Meredith’s turn to take it home comes at the end of July she will probably have to come into my house and pry it out of my hands in order to get it away from me.  So what’s all the fuss about? Well for me, sewing on the 820 makes me realize just how far I’ve come since first learning how to sew.

Like a lot of people, my mom taught me some sewing basics when I was a girl, but once I lost interest in making little skirts for my dolls I stopped sewing altogether. In my twenties I decided I wanted to learn how to make my own clothes, so I bought my first sewing-related book and talked my mom into buying me a sewing machine for Christmas. My little Husky Star was nothing special as far as sewing machines go, but it got me through so many beginner projects, and traveled with me to PCC when I started taking sewing classes there.

My first machine. Basic, mechanical, with the added bonus of having a name you can sing to the tune of Madonna's Lucky Star.

When I finally upgraded to my beautiful hand-painted Limited Edition BERNINA White Pearl, I thought my sewing-machine-coveting days were over. I plopped my Husky Star in a corner of my closet and never looked back.

The hand-painted graphic was a big part of what sold me on this machine over other models. I am a sucker for pretty.

I’ve been a proud BERNINA owner for about three years now, and I love my White Pearl to pieces, but the 820 does so many awesome things that now I am back in the throes of sewing machine envy.

Look how teeny my White Pearl looks next to the big bad 820.

The extra-big bobbins are awesome. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been about 2 inches from finishing a seam and my bobbin runs out. On this machine I can wind a new bobbin without having to unthread the rest of the machine, but I haven’t even had to do that yet, because the bobbin can hold so much thread that it seems like it might be magically never-ending.

On the left, the 820's giant bobbin. On the right, my White Pearl's regular-sized bobbin.

I’m also addicted to the thread cutter. When I finish stitching I press the button with the cute little pair of scissors on it, and the machine does 4 locking stitches, cuts the thread and lifts the presser foot on its own. I know it probably doesn’t seem that hard to backstitch, lift the presser foot by hand and trim the thread tails yourself, but seriously, this way is so much better. Yes, I am that lazy.

Another new-to-me feature on the 820 is the Free Hand System. In the short time I’ve been using it it has come to feel so essential that I’ve decided to have it installed on my White Pearl because I can’t imagine sewing without it once the 820 leaves me. I love being able to lift and lower the presser foot without taking my hands off my project. I can position and reposition and get everything perfectly exactly where I want it using the handy-dandy knee bar.

As the 820 makes its rounds among the ladies of Modern Domestic over the coming months, I’m sure you’ll hear many more stories of covetous 820 love, but for now, I’m going to keep pretending it will be mine forever. A girl can dream, right?